I was talking Awa, a Masters Student and teacher at the University, and I told her that I met a woman downtown who makes Cheb for a living. I told her that I wanted to spend some time with said woman, film her preparing Cheb and just basically have her tell me what she does and why she does it. Then I would have her tell me all that she knows about Cheb. Awa interrupted very abruptly and said NO! if you want to know about Cheb you have to talk to a griotte! She insisted that griottes are the keepers of Cheb especially those from St Louis the birthplace of Cheb (this I knew from my thesis, although I had no idea where to find a griotte and I didn't want to make and assumptions. Yes I have done the research but I want the place and the people to tell me for real). Awa speaks English quite well but most of this she said in French and even some in Wolof (my Wolof comprehension has VASTLY improved). And as though it was all ready made just for me (kind of like a movie set) she said my neighbour is a griotte & she is St Louisienne!!!! I was in HEAVEN! So after watching a bit of the Rapatack (basketball game accompanied by a hiphop dj on the turntables organised for the local youth) that was going on in the neighbourhood we went to visit the griotte. (sidenote I must have a very dedicated guardian angel somewhere, because this was just too coincidental) oh and Awa is the first Senegalese person I have met who does NOT like Cheb, so I will definitely be interviewing her!
Respectfully I took off my shoes, greeted (the courtsey, handshake and the mangui fi [I am fine]). The griotte so full of life and stories, seated on a plactic mat on the floor directed us to sit on the sofa. Awa then explained to her in Wolof (because she speaks no French) that I am doing research on Cheb & Senegalese identity and would essentially like to pick her brain. It was as though I brough candy to a child, her face light up, her already vibrant and viviacious disposition became more alive. She sat up straight, and I could tell her mind began to wonder at all the things she could tell me because she went on a whole tangent about all the wonders of St Louis, then came back to Cheb and could not stop talking. Awa even stopped paying attention, turned to me and signalled, blah, blah, blah... :) Long and short of the whole interaction is that I have a date with teh griotte this weekend. Friday morning we are going to the market to buy all the ingredients, she is very excited about that. In fact I heard her say that she will be the star of the market on Friday morning!! (she spoke in Wolof!!) Then on Saturday I will again go to her home and she will cook, and talk and then we will partake in a delicious meal. I asked her about Penda Mbaye, the first woman to prepare Cheb with rice and well she again went on a tangent so next time I will roll film and let her talk. Too bad I will have to edit and translate ALL that she says!!!
A bientot!!
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